#Alpha hydroxy acid skin
"They usually hydrate it by removing moisture from within and bringing it to the surface, so you don't want to use these types of acids in very weather-beaten or aged, dry skin because, over time, it will create a drier skin environment," she explains, adding that they can be used sparingly in these skin types to give an immediate plumping effect. Markowitz says that especially dry skin types should avoid using them, ironically because of their humectant abilities. Not everyone should aim to use AHAs daily, though. "You may get to day four, then all of a sudden your skin reacts." Take a month to ramp up to daily use, she says. "Irritation can take a while to show up," Dr. "They dissolve the upper layer of cells to trigger repair." Plus, unlike scrubs, the skin is not damaged by abrasives, so if you're sensitive, acids are actually a smart choice. "Acids don't work like retinoids, which repair skin by kick-starting inflammation," says Dr. Most people - even those with sensitive skin - can use alpha hydroxy acids as long as they're approached wisely.
The fruit acids in the AHA family, like citric and malic, are considered to be the gentlest of the bunch because of their larger molecular size and tend to do their best work when paired with their stronger counterparts, glycolic and lactic acid. Rabach also notes that AHAs stimulate your skin's natural production of collagen, helping to improve firmness and diminish fine lines. "AHAs help even out skin pigmentation irregularities from melasma and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation," she says. What are the benefits of alpha hydroxy acids?Īccording to Morgan Rabach, M.D., a board-certified dermatologist in New York City, alpha hydroxy acids are great for removing the outer layer of dead skin, making it smoother and more even in tone. Other AHAs frequently found in skin-care products include malic, citric, and tartaric acids, all of which are often referred to as fruit acids because of their sources. They are also the two smallest in terms of molecular size, allowing them to more easily penetrate. Markowitz explains, while lactic acid, though derivable from milk, is typically synthetic (and, therefore, vegan) when used in skin-care products. Glycolic acid is typically derived from sugarcane, Dr. The most popular alpha hydroxy acids used on skin are glycolic acid - the most intensive acid under the AHA umbrella - and lactic acid. Oil-soluble BHAs penetrate more deeply, which is why they're the gold standard for treating acne ( salicylic acid is the most commonly used BHA), while PHAs are molecularly larger and therefore gentler than AHAs when exfoliating on the surface. With this plethora of acids on the market, it can be hard for a layperson to understand how they differ, but according to Orit Markowitz, M.D., New York City-based, board-certified dermatologist and founder of OptiSkin, what sets AHAs apart is that they're water-soluble and work on the skin's surface. The three most common groups of exfoliating acids are alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), and polyhydroxy acid (PHA).
Let us (and our favorite skin-care experts) set the record straight on everything to know about alpha hydroxy acids. In addition to improved in-office peels, there's also now a seemingly endless amount of AHA-infused serums, creams, and cleansers that are suitable for a range of skin types and concerns.
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